Thursday, December 23, 2004

Gallipoli - Troy - Ephesus

Hi again,

Thought the last email was getting kinda long, so decided to split them up.

Gallipoli. All Aussie's and Kiwi's have been taught about this place ever since Day 1 of school, and every April 25th, Anzac Day, our nations mourn the death of the 1000's of soldiers who died here in World War 1. So to come here, and see the place in person, visiting the museums, memorials, and cemeteries, and to walk along the beach where they landed almost 90 years ago was something spectacular and moving.

We spent the best part of the day here, listening to tales told of courage, heroics, and friendships made between the Turks and Anzacs. It's stuff i'd heard hundreds of times before in school, and on TV and newspapers, but actually being there and kind of being able to imagine it happening made it all the more real to us. It was a strange experience for me, as i've never made much of it beforehand, but I certainly have a much better understanding and appreciation of the dramas now. It's funny how being in a place where history was made does that!

Troy?. The following day, we visited another site of historical importance, but one somewhat older. Troy, the one recently made into a Brad Pitt Hollywood flick (by all accounts it's crap, altho i've yet to see it). We were guided around the site for a few hours or so by a local villager and archaeologist/historian, and self-pronounced modern day Trojan warrior. To the naked eye, the site were we shown around was just a bunch of old ruins and knocked down stone/brick walls. With the help of Mustafa, we were almost able to reconstruct in our minds all of the how/why/what/when/where/who's of the 9 different stages of Trojan history, and pondered over the many different theories of the invasion of the city with the famed Trojan Horse. What could ordinarily have been rather boring was all of a sudden very interesting indeed.

6 Hours of driving in pouring rain later, and we arrived in the tiny village of Selcuk, the gateway to the ancient and amazing ruins of Ephesus.

Day 4 of our journey we spent the morning here following another well-versed guide around an ancient ruined city. Once again, an absolutely amazing experience. The main difference here was that the ruins here are in a much more well-preserved state where you can actually visualise the goings on of the Ancient Greeks and Romans around the time of Christ, and early 1st-3rd Centuries AD. Towering colums of marble, and public bathroom facilities complete with drainage systems, enormous open air theatres, and the facade of the Library of Celcius, which on its own is something to behold. And to think that this was all buried for centuries under metres of earth, and only excavated in the past 50 years or so. At some stage i'll add photos to my Yahoo Photo website and you'll get some idea.

Another of the highlights here for me so far has been the food. oh-my-God, Turkish cuisine is something else. Dining out every evening on Turkish breads and dips, kebabs, pizzas and salads, I just drool at the thought of dinner each night. It's only 4 days in and already i'm in 7th Heaven. On that note, it's almost 6pm, time for dinner.

Talk soon.

Tony

peace love and happy faces

A skyline full of towers and minarets.


Istanbul

Hey Folks,

Last time i wrote i was in Prague. Since then I've had 2 days in Istanbul, met up with my Adventure Bound tour group, and have been with them 3days now, and am in Selcuk.

Istanbul? My 2 days here were kinda wasted, and i felt a little bit down when leaving the place cause i should have/could have used the time sooo much better. I feel as tho i hardly know Istanbul at all.



Firstly, when i arrived it was past Midnight, and due to a cock-up by me travel agent (for once a cock-up on my travels wasn't due to me) there was no airport-hotel transfer arranged, nor had my hotel (where i was meeting with the tour group) had not been booked. So i had to spend an hour or so sorting this out with the hotel reception.

Next day, when i woke i was past Midday, and the cold i had brought from Dublin with me had gotten worse so I was feeling rather ordinary. I didn'y have a guide book with me, my usual source of info on what to do and therefore no idea where anything was, what was significant and special about the city, so left the hotel and just wandered. This was cool. i ended up walking away from the main tourist area, Sultanahmet, where the hotel was, down towards the harbour and into a local market area. A couple of hours later tho, i was just shattered tired from the cold i had, and just went back to the hotel and back to bed.

That evening i walked the opposite direction and stumbled upon the Grand Bazaar, an amazing covered market place full of shops and stalls selling all manner of goods, but I only had an hour before it was closing, and so really only saw a tiny section. The following day was Sunday and so closed. Bummer.

Back towards Sultanahmet I saw the Blue Mosque (16th Century) and Aya Sophya Musuem (6th Century), two phenonmenal buildings of immense size and grandeur, all lit up with floodlights. Ahhhh, so this is where it's all at!!!! I spent the next hour or so walking about them trying to get the best night photo i possibly could, with the plan to visit the both of them the next day.

By this stage i had not met anyone else from my tour group, and had no idea where to, let alone felt like, checking out Istanbul's famed nightlife, and so was back in bed by 11pm that Saturday night.

On the Sunday, I was up and out early enough, and was all set to see the sights. I had been not more than 90 seconds out the front of Aya Sophya, when i was accosted by the bane of all tourists, the carpet selling tout, making small talk conversation about the great friendship between Turks and Aussie's, and Turkish hospitality, slowly bringing the subject, ever so skillfully around to Turkish carpets, with the 'no obligation, just take a look?' line and lure of free Turkish tea 'to help you with your cold?' Thinking i would just go in there, drink some tea and chat, then leave, i went with the guy to his shop. 30 minutes later, having had at least 20 carpets rolled out in front of me with 'this one only 350 US dollars!', i finally managed to leave. The tea was delicious tho!

Back at Aya Sophya, once again it took all of 90 seconds for another guy to approach me. My will-power unusually low due to feeling rather sick, I was again led away. Another hard-core sales pitch and another 2 cups of tea, and i escaped the clutches of the carpet man. I couldn't be bothered dealing with this again, and so planned an hour's sabbatical at an Internet cafe to download pics from my camera to disc, before heading out again. Before i knew it, i had been there nearly 4 hours, the sun was setting and the musuem and mosque were closed. We were leaving Istanbul the next morning.

I need to come back here at some stage having had conversations with guys from my group i have finally learnt about all the great stuff in Istanbul that i missed. I mean I never even made it over the the river to the main city centre. I spent all my time in the tourist quarter, and most of that was wasted.

The tour group met up the next morning. 16 of us all up - all Aussie's with the exception of 1 Kiwi, 1 Brit 1, Canadian, and 1 Indian hopped on the bus and headed out to Cannakale our first night's stop - but the first stop was Gallipoli - a place very special to the hearts of Aussie's and Kiwi's.

peace love and happy faces